Seamwork Rachel

About the Seamwork Rachel Shirt

The Seamwork Rachel is a button up shirt with a slight trapeze shape. It has a pleat in the back that makes the fit looser in the waist. There is a member bonus pattern that lengthens the Rachel into a tunic. Sewing this pattern multiple times was a good learning experience. It was helpful to look at the shirts in my closet, and think about how the raw edges get encased in the sleeve placket. 

My love for button up shirts is unending, and I knew that I was going to make this pattern multiple times. 

Version 1: Rayon Challis

This was my first time sewing with rayon, and also my first time sewing sleeve plackets, which made it a tough project. But one of the best things about being a beginner is not knowing how hard something will be and just going for it. 

I took the fabric and pattern with me on a trip home to San Diego, thinking I would sew it on my original sewing machine and it would be a fun vacation craft. I didn’t even get past cutting out all the pattern pieces. It was really hard to cut the fabric out on a carpet floor. 

Back in NYC, I focused on sewing slowly on my Trash Machine. Using a walking foot would have helped a lot, but I didn’t learn about those until after. The seams of my shirt came out wobbly and the collar pieces stretched out, but I made it all fit together by folding some long ends into the corners. Also, with the finish line in sight, I rushed through making the buttonholes and they ended up rotated in the wrong direction. Now I check an example shirt from my closet whenever I’m ready to make the buttonholes.

Versions 2 & 3: Dress Length

I found these printed fabrics in the designer silk section at Mood. They are both cotton/silk blends, which is one of my favorite fabrics because it is luxurious, comfortable and also easy to handle. 

I used the bonus variation pattern and added more length to make it into a dress.  I also sewed a waist tie to go with my shirt dress. I did not change anything about the construction between Versions 2 and 3, except changing the pocket size. I recently discovered that I can wear these shirt dresses underneath a high waisted skirt for a different look. 

Version 4: Cotton Lawn with contrast piping 

This is the version that I wear the most, because it is so comfortable and is also the best fit with my current style. The fabric design is by one of my favorite textile designers, Carolyn Friedlander . While I was sewing, I decided to add piping to the edges that I had not yet finished. I took a lunch break to look for piping that would be similar weight as the fabric, in a contrasting color. I ended up piping the collar and shirt placket with dark navy.  

Version 5: Purple fabric from Grandma’s stash

I inherited this fabric from my grandma. The fiber content is a mystery and I assumed it was silk, or a mid weight polyester with a crepe texture. The pattern looks like bamboo leaves, and the fabric has a shiny side and a matte side. I used the matte side as the right side for my fifth Rachel shirt. 

This fabric had sat at the bottom of my fabric stash for a long time, partially because of its unusual width (28”). Finally, I decided to make a tried and true pattern with it. I had lots of time on my hands in the spring, so I took my time with cutting and sewing and making French seams. 

I topped it off with some pearlescent buttons to make this a special occasion silky top. 

Now that I have made five Rachels, I am going to put this pattern to rest and try to sew new things.