Grainline Alder: 5 Ways

Last week I wrote about how I often make multiple variations of the same sewing pattern. Here are some of my variations on the Grainline Alder dress pattern. I was interested in this pattern because it is a classic sleeveless shirtdress (View A) with an optional twist of a gathered skirt (View B). I’m usually attracted to sewing patterns that are simple shapes that offer a lot of opportunity for design modifications.

Version 1: View B Dress in Peach-Purple Stripe 

This was my wearable muslin. Instead of using muslin fabric I made this out of a striped mystery fabric that I had picked up at Fabscrap last summer. The fabric was sold by the pound and I didn’t feel like it was too precious to waste if it my first attempt turned out too small. It actually turned out very wearable and I had some success trying to pattern match horizontal stripes, also for the first time.

Version 2: View B Dress in Cotton Voile

This fabric is thin and semi sheer. I bought it at Mood a while ago, and on the same trip I also picked up some white cotton lawn for underlining. With a different project, I underlined a sheer fabric with cotton lawn, and I didn’t like how the double layer of fabric changed the drape of the final garment. I decided to sew this dress without a lining and wear it with a slip underneath. 

The large print really stands out with a simple silhouette and it was much easier not having to do any pattern matching.

Version 3: View B Shirt in Multi Color stripe

This is a semi-sheer mystery fabric from Fabscrap. For this version, I wanted to make a shirt by cropping the dress pattern to my hip. To determine the crop length, I put on one of my View B dresses and measured the length I wanted to remove from the hem up. I forgot to account for the finish seam allowance and cropped off too much, turning the skirt into a short ruffle. After completing this variation I decided that pattern matching stripes is not my favorite sewing activity. 

Version 4: View A Shirt in Quilting cotton

I had read about the difficulties of using quilting cotton to sew clothing, but I wanted to see what the issues were for myself. There are lots of different quilting cottons, with a wide range of quality, from scratchy and thin to soft and thick fabrics. 

I used a Robert Kaufman quilting cotton that is on the thicker side. The fabric design is Collection CF by Carolyn Friedlander, https://carolynfriedlander.com/ one of my favorite textile designers. I started with the View A dress with the straight skirt option, and measured from the hem how much length I wanted to crop to turn it into a top. I didn’t use the View B dress as my base because I thought the ruffle might end up too stiff in this fabric. As a finishing touch I added piping to the edge of the collar and button placket for contrast. The shirt is very comfortable and I would consider using high quality quilting cotton again to make a shirt. The next time I might adjust the back so the shirt is less tight at the shoulders. I believe the thicker cotton at the double layer yoke makes for a tighter back than my previous versions. 

Version 5: View A Scrappy Tuxedo Bib Inspired Shirt

For my fifth variation I wanted to make something very different, and also challenge myself to use some of the odd scraps and notions in my stash. I saw a tuxedo bib top on Instagram and it inspired me to come up with my own version of the look.

First, I sketched out my idea for a tuxedo bib inspired shirt. My sketches are usually a combination of a line drawing of a garment, ideas about how to construct it, and notes about the supplies I have or need for the project. Using my construction notes, I created an applique template for the bib, cut it out with a contrasting print fabric, and topstitched it to the front pieces. I also used the printed fabric to make the back yoke, and added black piping at the shoulders and inside the collar.

As a final finishing touch I “made” my own gold buttons by painting plain white buttons with gold nail polish. I even applied topcoat to the buttons to hopefully prevent the polish from chipping off. I thought I could wear this top with a blazer for a polished work wear look. 

Now I’ll put this pattern away for a bit and come up with new variations on different themes.